To help ease confusion, I’ve written this brief reference guide for SIG Sauer sight numbers and sight heights. Keeping them straight can be confusing, so I wrote this guide as much for myself as anyone else. 🙂
Pre-Owned - Sig Sauer P239.40 S&W Two Tone 3.6' Handgun GI#: 101376954 The P239 was developed in response to demands from law enforcement and federal agents for a compact back up pistol ideal for off duty concealed carry. P239 SAS Gen 2 pistol. 1stGenerationAmerican, Sep 13, 2010, in forum: Pistols. Sig 556r gen 2 serial numbers, sig sauer 556r gen 1 vs gen 2. Enter your serial number to the right to see if your P320 has already been upgraded. If the message indicates your pistol has not been upgraded, reach out to SIG SAUER Customer Service at 603-610-3000 option 1 (8:30am – 5:00pm EST).
Dec 13, 2014 I have a used P239 all stainless I bought just yesterday here in Grand Rapids, MI. It was marked by the dealer as 'rare' having been a special order from Michigan Police Supply Co. The serial number is S4-504xx (I checked the S4. Under high magnification, and it is definitely a '4' and not an 'A'). Sig recommends and trains so that the system is to be used as DAO (Double Action Only). You will see that they only list the 6.5 lbs. Trigger pull in DA on their DAK models specifications sheets. They recommend that users should be trained to fire the pistol by utilizing the full double action trigger stroke so that the trigger is a consistent.
Which SIGs Use Which Heights?
For classic P-Series pistols, the “general” rule for what are considered the “standard” SIG sight numbers is actually based on the gun’s caliber, not the model. The standard SIG sight numbers for particular calibers are:
- 9mm & .357 SIG:Â #8 front /Â #8 rear
- .40Â S&W & .45Â ACP:Â #6 front / #8 rear
For the SIG X-RAY sights (like the ones that come on the Legion series pistols), things seem to be a bit different, and the model does seem to matter:
- P226 Legion 9mm (DA/SA & SAO):Â #8 front /Â #8 rear
- P226 Legion .40 DA/SA & P229 Legion 9mm DA/SA:Â #6 front / #6 rear
Notice above that I put the words “general” and “standard” in quotes… because these are generally what SIG uses, and what they say is the standard… but in practice, I’ve actually seen all sorts of variability. Both the 9mm and .40 versions of the SIG P320C come with #6 front / #8 rear from the factory, while the full-size P320 comes with #8 front / #8 rear. The 9mm SIG M11-A1 also breaks the “rule” and comes with #6 front / #8 rear.
So if your P229 .40 came with #8 front and #8 rear, but shoots fine as-is, there’s no need to rush out and change your front sight to a #6. These are the general rules, but if you come across an exception that works for you… go with it.
Whatever the reason for all the variability, it should be obvious by now to refer to the above “rules” in general terms only. Chances are, your factory sights will be either #6 and/or #8, with the only guarantee being that the front won’t be a higher number than the rear. But beyond that, it almost seems like anything goes!
For example, in preparation for this article, I recently asked members of the SIG Sauer Legion Owners Facebook Group to post their Legion’s sight numbers. Two members, both with 9mm P226 Legion SAO pistols posted different front sight numbers:
P226 Legion SAO (9mm) with a #6 front sight from the factory
P226 Legion SAO (9mm) with a #8 front sight from the factory
What’s most important is to know what your SIG currently has, and whether those work for you. To find what sights your SIG currently has, look for a small number, usually on the left side of the front sight, and the right side of the rear sight (on the SIG X-RAY sights, both are on the right).
Some shooters prefer non-standard sight heights, and whatever works for them (or you) is fine. If you want to change your sight heights to move your groups up or down, it’s your gun. Do what you want with it.
SIG Sauer Sight Numbers and Heights
With SIG sight numbers, a #6 front sight is not the same height as a #6 rear sight. The system seems counter-intuitive at first, but if you look at the following table and can see the patterns, you’ll figure it out. And if you can’t, don’t worry — I explain everything after the table. 🙂
This table shows the actual heights of each SIG front and rear sight number. The front heights shown are the actual heights of the sight — including the dovetail base, not just the blade.
SIG Sight Number | Front Sight Height | Rear Sight Height |
---|---|---|
#4 | N/A | 5.24 mm / 0.210 in |
#5 | 6.01 mm / 0.235 in | 5.52 mm / 0.220 in |
#6 | 5.88 mm / 0.230 in | 5.80 mm / 0.230 in |
#7 | 5.74 mm / 0.225 in | 6.07 mm / 0.240 in |
#8 | 5.60 mm / 0.220 in | 6.35 mm / 0.250 in |
#9 | 5.46 mm / 0.215 in | 6.62 mm / 0.260 in |
#10 | 5.32 mm / 0.210 in | 6.9 mm / 0.270 in |
Note from the table that:
- The higher the front sight number, the lower the sight’s height.
- The higher the rear sight number, the higher the sight’s height.
This seems weird at first, until you realize how the different sight numbers will affect a round’s point of impact. Always remember that:
- As numbers go up, your groups go up.
- As numbers go down, your groups go down.
This is true regardless of whether you change only the front sight, only the rear sight, or both. Again, higher numbers (for either sight) mean higher groups, while lower numbers (for either sight) mean lower groups.
Optimal SIG Sauer Sight Picture
Modern “three-dot” SIG Sauer pistol sights are set up from the factory in a “combat sight picture” configuration so that when all three dots are aligned, the POA (Point of Aim) is in the center of (or “behind) the front dot, as shown in Sight Image 3 below:
Earlier West German SIGs used Von Stavenhagen sights, which are similar in that when properly aligned, they place POA directly “behind” the front dot:
Von Stavenhagen sight picture
SIG Sauer pistols are also set up from the factory so that at a distance of 25 yards, the Point of Aim (POA) is the same as the Point of Impact (POI) — meaning that with a target at 25 yards, the round should impact the target exactly where the sights were aimed, with no compensation needed for bullet drop. At distances beyond 25 yards, the  POI will be progressively lower than the POA.
How Different Sights Affect POI
If you’re considering changing your sights to move your groups up or down, understand that changes to the rear sight affect your 25 yard point-of-impact twice as much as an equal change to the front sight. How to open ani files.
To figure out exactly how different numbered sights will change your POI as compared to your current sights, keep in mind that at 25 yards, each sight number change is “worth” one inch for the front sight and two inches for the rear sight. So at 25 yards:
- Raising the front sight one number raises the POI by 1″
- Lowering the front sight one number lowers the POI by 1″
- Raising the rear sight one number raises the POI by 2″
- Lowering the rear sight one number lowers the POI by 2″
Again, the front sight is worth 1″ and the rear sight is worth 2″ for every number change. This means that at 25 yards, the following sight combinations should all have the same POI on the same gun:
- 6 front / 8 rear
- 8 front / 7 rear
- 10 front / 6Â rear
If you understand why the above is true, then you’re well on your way to understanding the SIG sight numbering system!
Kotor 2 hk factory walkthrough. Also, because a single number change in the rear sight affects POI greater than a single number change to the front sight, if your 25 yard POI is off by more than two inches, it’s best to change your rear sight first, then “fine tune” with changes to the front.
How to Adjust or Change Your SIG Sights
Any qualified gunsmith will be able to remove, install, and/or adjust the sights on your SIG Sauer pistol. Some owners prefer to do it themselves in the “old school” style with a hammer and punch. I prefer use a SIG Sight Pusher like this one. The following video (taken from my P226 Upgrade Video Series) shows how easy it is to remove, install, and adjust SIG P-series sights with a sight pusher:
In 2002, SIGARMS (which became SIG Sauer Inc. in the United States in 2007), published this card with tips on sight adjustment and replacement:
As always, I welcome your questions, comments, corrections, and feedback below!
If you’ve heard someone mention proof marks or date codes when discussing a SIG Sauer pistol, but weren’t quite sure what those were, then the goal of this article is to bring you up to speed. And even if you’re already familiar with proof marks, maybe this article can broaden your knowledge and teach you something new.
What are Proof Marks?
Proof marks are stamps embedded in certain parts of a firearm following (and sometimes during, depending on the firearm type) its manufacturing to indicate that the firearm has been “proven” to be able to handle the specific type of ammunition for which it was designed. In modern years, they truly do serve that purpose. But like many government regulations, their origins have more to do with self-interest than safety.
The first proof marks started appearing in 15th century France, and by the 17th century, European firearms guildsmen were heavily promoting their use — and lobbying their governments for laws requiring them — primarily to dissuade competition from non-guildsmen and scare potential purchasers away from un-proofed guns.
In 1637, after heavy lobbying from the London Gunmakers Company, a London-area firearms guild, King Charles I issued a Royal Charter setting firearms safety standards. The London Gunmakers Company set up a “proof house” in London, and not surprisingly… firearms makers who were not part of a guild tended to fail testing more often than the guild members. Guns that passed testing were stamped with a mark representing the proof house. Over the next few decades, other countries established their own safety standards and proof houses, along with their own unique marks. Much like reciprocity of modern concealed carry permits between states, some European countries began to recognize each others’ proof marks as a high enough testing standard for foreign countries’ firearms to be legally imported.
Fast forward to 1914, when a number of European countries formed the CIP (Commission Internationale Permanente pour l’Epreuve des Armes à Feu Portatives) as a formal standards group to ensure consistent testing among member countries. As of 2015, the CIP includes 14 member states. In order for a civilian firearm produced in a CIP member state to be legally imported to another CIP country, it must bear the proof mark of a CIP member state (military testing standards are, predictably, different than civilian ones). The United States does not participate in CIP, but instead formed its own standards group named SAAMI (Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute). While the CIP and SAAMI do share information and cooperate, neither has a requirement regarding selling in each other’s countries. Because the US is not a CIP member state, foreign guns do not need a CIP proof mark to be sold in the US, nor do US guns need a US proof mark to be sold in CIP member countries. This is an important fact that will become relevant again later in this article.
Examples of German Proof Marks
Here’s an assortment of mid 20th century proof marks used through Germany’s (and West Germany’s) history:
The top row (a) indicates the German (or East/West German, depending on the year) city in which the proof house is located. The column marked (b) shows varios German/West German proof marks after 1945, while the column marked (c) shows German proof marks used from 1939-1945.
Here’s another image showing the marks of German/West German proof houses, along with the approximate year they were first in use:
Proof Marks on SIG Sauer Pistols
Depending on it’s vintage and model, you might see proof marks on a German / West German SIG’s frame:
Proof mark on a West German P220 frame
Or on its barrel:On the slide chin (the underside of the slide near the muzzle end), which is the most common location for West German and German SIG Sauers:Adobe xd for mac torrent. Proof marks on the slide chin of a West German SIG Sauer pistol
To make sense of these proof marks, let’s look at those on the above slide chin.Kiel Proof House Mark
The top proof mark indicates the Kiel Proof House. Since Kiel is only 17 miles from SIG Sauer’s manufacturing facility in Eckernförde, that’s the proof mark you should expect to see on a proofed SIG Sauer. Vertex tools sketchup crack keygen. Many refer to the Kiel mark as a “squashed bug,” while others have claimed it’s an oak leaf. Actually, the proof mark is based on the city of Kiel’s coat of arms:
…which in turn is based on the district of Schaumburg’s coat of arms:Coat of arms of Schaumburg
The shape represents a Nesselblatt, or nettle leaf. Tradition held that the leaves of the nettle were symbolic of the nails used to crucify Christ, so the three larger leaves represent the nails of the crucifixion.All true German and West German SIGs were test fired at the Kiel proof house, so the Nesselblatt proof mark is an indicator of a true German or West German SIG. I’ve also heard one report of the Ulm proof house’s stag antler mark appearing on a the frame and slide of a 1993 SIG P226 (in addition to the Kiel mark on the slide), which would imply that the firearm required repair and re-proofing… and presumably the repair took place at a location that was closer to Ulm than Kiel. Normally, you’d expect to see the Ulm proof mark on a Walther or H&K firearm.
The German Definitive Mark and Nitro Testing
Underneath the Kiel Nesselblatt (though the order of the marks is not important), we find the image of an eagle with the letter “N” underneath. Some incorrectly believe that the eagle mark is a remnant of Nazi-era Germany, particularly since Germany’s firearms proof mark was a previously crown, and was changed to an eagle in 1939.
In actuality, the German Reichsadler (literally “Eagle of the Realm”) dates back to the eagle on the standard of the Roman Empire, and was used as a symbol of the Second German Empire as early as 1871… long before the National Socialist German Workers’ Party. The same eagle design has continued its use in West Germany since 1945, but under a new name of Bundesadler, or “Union Eagle.”
The Eagle-N mark signifies that the firearm was proofed in Germany (or West Germany, depending on when the firearm was proofed), while the “N” indicates that the firearm was proofed using a Nitro Beschuss load. “Beschuss” translates as “bombardment,” “shelling,” or “firing” depending on context, and “nitro” is short for “nitrocellulose,” a highly flammable compound used to creates pressures inside the firearm higher than standard gun powder.
Pistols are delivered to the proof houses in their fully assembled form for proofing. For pistols, CIP standards require cartridges that generate pressure 30% higher than the standard ammunition for which the pistol is designed, so the two high pressure nitro rounds are fired through the pistol. Technicians then disassemble the pistol and examine it in a dark room using a fluoroscopic lamp, looking for magnetic flux leakage. Provided everything looks good, the pistol is re-assembled and receives the country’s CIP proof mark indicating what type of test it passed (the Eagle-N or “definitive” mark in the case of a German gun), the mark of the proof house, and marks indicating the date of the tests. The firearms is then returned to the manufacturer who can legally sell the firearm domestically or export it to another CIP country.
The “nitro” proof mark is also referred to as the “definitive” (or final) mark of the proof house, as opposed to a “provisional” mark which would generally only apply to shotgun barrels in an early stage of manufacture, which are tested at proof houses to prevent the manufacturer from continuing work on defective tubes. Crossover 19.0.1.32209 for macos.
Date Codes
Looking back at our photo, the “JK” under the definitive proof mark is the date code. Crack real life cam hack. Date codes are two-letter indicators of the year that a firearm was proofed. Major German firearms companies such as Heckler and Koch, Walther, and SIG Sauer all used a similar date code format:
German gun manufacturers used these letters in place of numbers for date codes
Just to keep things interesting, SIG Sauer chose not to use the letter “I” because it looked too much like the numeral “1,” so J = 8 in SIG speak. The proof house in Koln (Cologne), Germany also follows this format. Walther and Heckler & Koch chose to use “I” for 8 but skip “J,” except that you will see a “J” on an H&K magazine’s date code. Gotta love German logic. 🙂Using the above table, we can determine that the “JK” date code in the photo stands for “89” — meaning this firearm was proofed in 1989… which coincidentally happened to be the year the Berlin Wall came down. This doesn’t necessarily mean that the pistol was manufactured in 1989. It’s quite possible the barrel was made in 1986, the frame in 1987, and the slide in 1988… but that all the parts weren’t assembled together into a firearm and delivered to a proof house until 1989. Or it’s possible that all the parts were actually made in 1989, and then assembled and proofed that same year. There’s no way to know. A true German / West German firearm isn’t technically “born” until it’s been proofed.
Sig Sauer P239 Serial Numbers
Note that a gun’s date code is different than its serial number. It’s impossible to decode a SIG serial number to determine when it was proofed, although you can try to locate the range of your SIG’s serial number in this list to approximate when it was made, or call SIG Sauer with the serial number and see if they have any info in their system. Serial numbers aren’t always truly representative of the chronological order of a firearm, but they can sometimes get you close. Only a date code can tell you the year of proofing.
Proofed vs. Non-Proofed “Made in Germany” Guns
If you’ve read my article on West German vs. German vs. Other SIGs, you’ll know that proof marks are one of the primary indicators or whether a SIG Sauer (or any other firearm) is truly “made” in Germany (or West Germany) as opposed to assembled in the US using German-made parts… even though the parts might be stamped “Made in Germany.” Because the US is not a CIP country, guns marked “Made in Germany” do not need to be proofed in order to be sold here, as long as they are assembled in the US.
In my opinion, a gun without German proof marks (with very few exceptions) is not truly a German gun. Whether that actually affects the desirability or quality of the gun is for you to decide. But you should at least be aware that for most SIG purists, the existence of proof marks is what determines whether a gun is correctly referred to as “Made in Germany.”
Putting it All Together
Now that you know how to decode proof marks and date codes, see if you can figure out where and when the following firearms were proofed. Most are SIGs, but I threw some other German guns in there just for fun. 🙂
Sig Sauer P239 Serial Numbers List
Normally, the proof house mark is above the definitive mark on a SIG, but this is a very early SIG P220
Walther P99
Sig Sauer P239 Discontinued
I welcome your corrections, questions, comments, & feedback below.
Further Reading:
- http://firearmshistory.blogspot.com/2011/01/testing-firearms-proof-test.html
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proof_test